Dog Raincoats: Do You Need One, and How to Choose the Right Fit

In short
Most dogs benefit from a raincoat on wet UK walks, but not every dog needs one. Small, short-coated, senior, thin, or unwell dogs tend to feel the cold and wet fastest. PDSA notes that pets who are very young, small, elderly, thin, or unwell are at higher risk of getting dangerously cold, because they're less able to regulate their own body temperature. Double-coated breeds with a naturally weatherproof coat, Huskies and Malamutes among them, generally manage fine without one. Below, we cover how to measure your dog properly, what "waterproof" actually means versus "water-resistant" (roughly 3,000mm hydrostatic head or above), how to check a coat works with your dog's harness, and why leaving a coat on too long can do more harm than good.

Do dogs need raincoats?

Most dogs benefit from wearing a raincoat on a properly wet walk, though "need" is doing some work in that sentence. A fit, healthy, medium-to-large dog with a thick double coat can usually handle a shower without much bother. A small, thin-coated, elderly, or unwell dog is a different story.

PDSA, the UK's veterinary charity, is direct about who's most at risk when the temperature drops: pets that are very young, small, elderly, thin, or unwell are at higher risk of hypothermia, because they're less able to control their own body temperature. That isn't really about rain specifically. It's about cold, wet dogs losing heat faster than they can replace it, and rain combined with wind is one of the quickest ways for that to happen on an ordinary UK walk.

In practice, that points towards a fairly specific group of dogs where a coat earns its keep: Whippets, Greyhounds, and other fine-coated breeds; small breeds like Chihuahuas and small terriers; puppies and senior dogs; and any dog that's underweight or recovering from illness. PDSA specifically notes that dogs with fine or thin fur, and dogs that are very young, underweight, old, or unwell, "feel the cold much faster than other dogs" and are the ones most likely to need a coat when they go out. A dog currently fighting off fleas, ticks, or worms often falls into that more vulnerable "unwell" group too; our flea, tick, and worm prevention guide covers spotting and treating those earlier, before a dog's condition affects how well they cope with cold and wet.

For everyone else, it's more of a comfort decision than a necessity. A short walk in light rain isn't going to harm a healthy adult dog with a normal coat. But a longer walk, driving rain, or a genuinely cold day changes the calculation, and a dog that comes home soaked through and then sits around shivering isn't having a great afternoon regardless of breed.

The honest answer: some dogs need a raincoat, most would appreciate one on a bad day, and a few genuinely don't benefit from one at all. The next section covers which is which.

Which dogs don't need a raincoat

This really comes down to coat biology: coat type predicts whether a dog needs help far better than size or breed personality does. Dogs broadly fall into two camps: double-coated, and single-coated (sometimes called fine-coated).

Double-coated breeds, Huskies, Malamutes, Newfoundlands, Bernese Mountain Dogs, and similar, have a dense insulating undercoat topped with a coarser, water-repellent outer layer. That outer coat sheds water, keeping it from soaking into the undercoat beneath, which traps warm air against the skin. It's a genuinely effective system, built for close to the exact conditions a raincoat is meant to solve. PDSA lists Huskies and Malamutes among the breeds "well suited to colder weather" for this reason. Putting a coat on a dog like this in typical UK rain doesn't do much beyond restricting their coat's own ability to do its job, and can trap moisture against skin that's built to shed it.

Single-coated or fine-coated breeds are the opposite case. Whippets, Greyhounds, Chihuahuas, and Boxers, among others, have one layer of hair with little insulating undercoat and not much natural water resistance. There's no built-in weatherproofing to fall back on, which is exactly why these breeds keep showing up in vet advice about who benefits most from a coat (see the section above).

Most dogs sit somewhere in the middle. A Labrador's or Spaniel's coat offers some water resistance but isn't in the same league as a Husky's, so a coat on a longer or colder walk is a reasonable call rather than an overreaction.

If you're not sure which camp your own dog falls into, run a hand through their coat after a light shower. Water beading and rolling off suggests decent natural resistance; a coat that soaks through quickly suggests they'd genuinely benefit from some help.

Waterproof vs water-resistant: what the numbers actually mean

"Waterproof" and "water-resistant" get used almost interchangeably in pet shops, which is a shame, because they describe genuinely different levels of protection, and the difference matters on a proper UK winter walk.

Fabric water resistance is usually measured by hydrostatic head, expressed in millimetres (mm). The figure represents how tall a column of water the fabric can withstand before it starts to let water through. As a rough, general guide:

• Under roughly 1,500mm:
  Water-resistant. Fine for light drizzle or a quick dash to the car, not built for sustained rain.

• Around 1,500–3,000mm:
  Better, but still likely to let water through on a longer walk in heavy or driving rain.

• Roughly 3,000mm and above:
  Genuinely waterproof for sustained UK rain, the level worth looking for if your dog is out in all weathers.

A high hydrostatic head figure isn't the whole story, though. Seams are usually the weak point. A coat can carry an impressive mm rating and still leak where the panels are stitched together, if those seams haven't been taped or sealed. Look for "seam-sealed" or "taped seams" in the product description; the headline rating alone won't tell you.

Most genuinely waterproof dog coats achieve this with a polyurethane (PU) coating bonded to the outer fabric, usually a nylon or polyester base, similar in principle to a lot of human waterproof outdoor gear. Cheaper coats sometimes rely on a water-repellent spray finish instead, which sheds light rain well when new but wears off with washing and use, gradually drifting closer to "water-resistant" territory over the coat's life.

If a listing doesn't mention a specific mm figure or seam-sealing at all, treat the word "waterproof" with a healthy dose of scepticism.

How to measure your dog for a raincoat

Sizing charts vary a surprising amount between brands, so don't assume a "medium" from one maker matches a "medium" from another. Three measurements, taken with your dog standing naturally rather than sitting or stretching, will get you most of the way to a proper fit:

1. Back length — from the nape of the neck (roughly where a collar sits) to the base of the tail, following the curve of the spine. This is usually the single most important number on a sizing chart.

2. Chest girth — the widest point around the ribcage, typically just behind the front legs. Measure snugly but without pulling the tape tight.

3. Neck circumference — around the base of the neck, where a coat's neck opening or collar area will sit.

A soft tape measure works better than a rigid one for all three. If your dog fidgets, treats and a second pair of hands help enormously; this isn't a measurement worth rushing.

Once you have the three numbers, check them against the specific brand's own size chart; don't assume your dog's general size label (small, medium, large) carries across from one maker to another. A back length of 40cm might land as "small" on one chart and "medium" on the next, particularly between brands cut for different builds, deep-chested breeds versus barrel-chested ones, for example.

If your dog measures between two sizes, the general rule is to size up for a barrel-chested or deep-chested dog, and to check neck and chest room specifically for a narrower-bodied breed like a Whippet or Greyhound, where a coat can end up baggy round the middle even at the "right" back length.

If you're kitting out a dog you've only just brought home, measuring for a raincoat is just one item on a longer list; our first-time dog owner guide covers the wider setup checklist this fits into.

Fit, coverage, and harness compatibility

A raincoat that fits well covers your dog's back and sides down towards the belly without restricting movement anywhere. How far down the sides a coat reaches varies by design; some stop at the ribcage, others wrap further round towards the underside, which matters more for short-legged or low-slung breeds picking up more splash-back from wet pavements.

Leg coverage is a genuine functional trade-off. Coats with leg cutouts or sleeves keep the legs drier but can restrict shoulder movement if they're not cut generously, and some dogs simply won't tolerate anything near their front legs. A coat with no leg coverage at all is easier to fit and less likely to rub, at the cost of wet front legs and shoulders on a genuinely soaking walk.

Closures fall into three broad types: velcro underbelly straps (adjustable and quick, though they can wear out or gather burrs and debris over time), clip fastenings (secure and fast once your dog is used to them), and zips (a close, tailored fit, but fiddlier with cold hands or a wriggling dog, and slower for a nervous or arthritic dog to get in and out of).

The detail that matters most, and the one a lot of owners only discover after buying, is harness compatibility. Look specifically for a "harness hole" or back opening: a gap or slit in the coat's back panel that lets you clip a harness, and the lead attached to it, on over or through the coat without taking the whole thing off. Without one, you're stuck either fitting the harness first and squeezing the coat over the top (fiddly, and it can bunch the fabric under the straps), or removing the coat entirely every time the harness needs to go on. If your dog already walks on a harness rather than a collar and lead, as many do, this single feature makes more everyday difference than almost anything else on the coat.

Whatever the design, check for rubbing at the armpits and around the neck after the first few wears, and watch that your dog can move their shoulders freely. A coat that pinches under the front legs tends to get shrugged off, chewed at, or quietly avoided on the next walk. If you're also thinking about your dog's lead setup for wet-weather walks, our guide to fixed versus flexi leads covers the other half of a comfortable, well-controlled walk. Not sure whether a Y-shape or H-shape harness suits your dog best in the first place? Our Y-shape vs H-shape harness guide covers the pros and cons of each, including how the shape affects where a coat's harness hole needs to sit.

Material and design features to look for

Beyond the waterproof rating itself, a handful of features separate a coat that actually works from one that ends up at the back of a cupboard by November.

Fabric

PU-coated nylon and ripstop nylon are the two most common outer fabrics on genuinely waterproof coats. Ripstop refers to a reinforcing weave that stops small tears from spreading, useful for a dog who regularly goes off pavements into hedges, brambles, or long grass.

Lining

A breathable lining lets moisture from your dog's own body escape. A solid waterproof lining on both sides traps that moisture against the skin instead. This matters more than it sounds: a fully sealed coat can leave a dog just as damp from the inside as they'd have been from the rain, and it's part of why leaving a coat on too long indoors becomes a problem (more on that below).

Reflective trim

Piping, patches, or a printed reflective panel do genuine, practical safety work. Dark, wet evenings are exactly when a raincoat gets worn, and exactly when a dog is hardest to see from a car or bike, so a small reflective addition earns its place on the coat.

Underbelly and leg straps

A strap running under the belly, sometimes with a second at the chest or leg, stops the coat riding up the dog's back or twisting round in wind, both surprisingly common with a coat that only fastens at the neck and shoulders. Watch for straps sitting directly over the belly with no padding; on a thin or elderly dog this can become uncomfortable over a longer walk.

Hood

Not universal, and not essential for most dogs, but worth considering for breeds with exposed ears or eyes in driving rain, Spaniels for instance. A detachable hood gives you the option without committing to it on drier days.

None of these features individually makes or breaks a coat. Taken together, though, they're the difference between something your dog tolerates for the length of one walk and something that actually gets reached for every time it rains.

Can a dog get too hot in a raincoat?

Yes, and it's worth taking seriously: don't treat a coat as something to "leave on to be safe." A raincoat traps heat by design. That's exactly what makes it useful in genuinely cold, wet conditions, and exactly what makes it a problem once those conditions aren't there anymore.

PDSA is blunt about the indoor case specifically: "Most dogs won't need to wear a coat indoors as they can quickly overheat in modern, centrally heated homes." The same logic applies once a dog is dry after a walk, or on a day that turns out milder than expected. A coat that made sense at the start of the walk can become uncomfortable, or worse, by the end of it.

A breathable lining (see the previous section) reduces the risk somewhat by letting some heat and moisture escape, but it doesn't remove the need to actually take the coat off once it's done its job. Watch for panting that seems excessive for the effort involved, a dog trying to shake or scratch the coat off, or a reluctance to keep moving. All of these are reasonable signs a dog is genuinely too warm.

The practical rule is straightforward: a raincoat is for the walk, in weather that genuinely warrants it. It isn't meant to become a permanent part of your dog's routine. Take it off as soon as you're home and your dog is dry, and skip it altogether on a mild, dry day even if it's normally part of the routine. This is the one place in this guide worth being genuinely firm about: more coat doesn't automatically mean safer. If you're ever unsure whether your dog is overheating, check with your vet.

Choosing by coat type and life stage

Puppies

Growing dogs change shape and size quickly, so it's tempting to buy a size up "to grow into." Resist that instinct with a raincoat specifically; an oversized coat is more likely to trip a puppy up, catch on their legs, or simply get shrugged off mid-walk, which teaches them to dislike wearing one before they've had a proper chance to get used to it. Look for adjustable straps that can be taken in, and an easy on/off closure (velcro or clips) while they're still learning to stand still for it. The same "don't buy for growing into" logic applies to other puppy gear too, our dog crate buying guide covers the sizing trade-offs there in more depth.

Adult dogs

Match the coat to coat type as covered above; a single-coated or fine-coated adult benefits more than a double-coated one, and the rest comes down to fit, harness compatibility, and how often your dog is genuinely out in wet conditions.

Senior or arthritic dogs

Easy on/off matters more here than it does for a young, agile dog. A wide velcro strap or a simple clip closure that doesn't ask an older dog to hold an awkward stance for long is worth prioritising over a closer-fitting zip, even if the zip gives a slightly neater result. Older dogs are also more likely to fall into PDSA's higher-risk group for feeling the cold (see the sections above), so for this group, the coat's own warmth matters as much as how it fastens.

Whatever the life stage, the underlying question stays the same: does this coat suit how this particular dog, at this particular age and build, actually experiences cold and wet weather. A generic "small dog" or "big dog" assumption doesn't capture that.

Common mistakes when buying a dog raincoat

Assuming "water-resistant" means "waterproof." They're not the same thing (see the ratings explainer above), and a water-resistant coat bought for regular wet walks will disappoint fairly quickly.

Measuring by breed stereotype instead of the actual dog

"Small dog" and "medium dog" cover a huge range of shapes. Use the three measurements from the sizing section above; guessing from general size or breed is how the wrong size ends up in the basket.

Not checking harness compatibility until it's too late

Buying a coat and a harness separately, then discovering on the first walk that neither works properly with the other, is one of the most common and most avoidable frustrations. Check for a harness hole before buying, not after — our Y-shape vs H-shape harness guide is worth a look first if you haven't settled on a harness shape yet either.

Leaving the coat on indoors out of habit

Once a coat becomes part of the routine, it's easy to forget to take it off after the walk. See the overheating section above for why that's worth avoiding.

Assuming all coats perform the same at the seams

Two coats can list an identical hydrostatic head rating and behave very differently in practice if one has taped, sealed seams and the other doesn't. It's rarely obvious from a product photo, so check the description specifically, or read a handful of reviews mentioning wet-weather performance, before buying a coat that'll see regular use through a full UK winter.

Caring for a dog raincoat

Most dog raincoats are hand-washable or machine-washable on a gentle, cold cycle, but always check the label on the specific coat you own: some coated fabrics and reflective trims don't tolerate a hot wash or a standard detergent well.

Air-dry the coat; skip the tumble dryer. Heat can damage the waterproof coating and any taped seams over time, gradually reducing how well the coat keeps water out even if it still looks fine.

If an older coat starts "wetting out" (water soaking into the fabric and darkening it instead of beading and rolling off), that's usually just the water-repellent finish wearing thin. A reproofing spray, applied after a wash and left to dry properly, can often bring an older coat back to something close to its original performance, worth trying before replacing the coat outright.

What to expect to pay

Prices vary a lot by fabric quality, brand, and how technical the waterproofing is. As a rough, illustrative guide only, not live or verified pricing (prices checked 28 August 2026):

• Budget (£15–£25):
  Usually water-resistant rather than genuinely waterproof, simpler closures, no harness hole or reflective trim as standard.

• Mid-range (£25–£45):
  Typically a proper waterproof rating with seam-sealing, a harness hole, and often a breathable lining.

• Technical/premium (£45–£80+):
  Higher hydrostatic head ratings, more durable fabrics such as ripstop, and extras like a detachable hood, chest padding, or reflective panelling as standard.

These are general market ranges, not prices for any specific product, since this guide doesn't recommend individual coats. Treat them as a starting point for budgeting, and check current pricing before buying, since it moves around.

Frequently asked questions

Do dogs need raincoats in the UK?

Not every dog does, but most benefit on a properly wet walk. PDSA notes pets that are very young, small, elderly, thin, or unwell are at higher risk of getting dangerously cold, and these are the dogs a raincoat helps most. Double-coated breeds with natural weatherproofing, like Huskies and Malamutes, generally manage without one. For everyone else, it's more about comfort than necessity.

What's the difference between a waterproof and a water-resistant dog coat?

Water resistance is measured by hydrostatic head in millimetres. Roughly under 1,500mm is water-resistant only, fine for light drizzle but not sustained rain. Around 3,000mm and above counts as genuinely waterproof. A high rating alone isn't the whole story: check for taped or sealed seams too, since that's usually where an otherwise well-rated coat lets water in.

How do I measure my dog for a raincoat?

Take three measurements with your dog standing naturally: back length (nape of the neck to base of the tail), chest girth (the widest point just behind the front legs), and neck circumference. Check these against the specific brand's own size chart, since generic small/medium/large labels don't line up consistently between makers.

Can dogs wear a raincoat with a harness?

Yes, provided the coat has a "harness hole" or back opening that lets you clip the harness and lead on over or through the coat without removing it first. Without one, fitting a harness over a coat can bunch the fabric and feel awkward for your dog. Check for this feature before buying if your dog wears a harness.

Which dogs don't need a raincoat?

Double-coated breeds with a naturally water-repellent outer coat and insulating undercoat, Huskies, Malamutes, Newfoundlands, and similar, generally don't need one for typical UK rain. Their own coat does the job a raincoat would. Most other dogs, particularly single-coated or fine-coated breeds, lack that built-in protection and benefit more from wearing one.

Can a dog get too hot in a raincoat?

Yes. A coat traps heat by design, which is useful in genuinely cold, wet conditions and a problem once those conditions pass. PDSA notes most dogs don't need a coat indoors, since they can quickly overheat in a centrally heated home. Take the coat off as soon as your dog is dry, and skip it on milder days.

How often should I wash my dog's raincoat?

There's no fixed schedule; wash it when it's visibly dirty, smells, or starts to "wet out" instead of shedding water properly, whichever comes first. Most coats are hand- or machine-washable on a gentle, cold cycle, so check the label first. Skip the tumble dryer and let it air-dry, to protect the waterproof coating and any seam-sealing.

The bottom line

Most dogs get some benefit from a raincoat on a wet UK walk, some genuinely need one, and a smaller group, thick double-coated breeds mostly, do fine without. Beyond that basic decision, fit and waterproof rating matter far more than brand name: measure properly, check for a harness hole if your dog wears one, and don't leave the coat on longer than the weather actually calls for. If you're kitting your dog out more generally, our guide to choosing a dog bed covers the indoor side of things.