Keeping Rabbits and Guinea Pigs Warm in Winter: A UK Guide for Outdoor Hutches

Short answer: Guinea pigs. The RSPCA says to move them indoors once temperatures fall below 15°C, with a room at 17–20°C ideal. PDSA puts their ideal at 15–20°C, and the British Veterinary Association (BVA, via the Met Office) gives a wider 5–20°C. Our reading: most UK guinea pigs need to be in the house, or in a car-free shed or garage, for much of the winter.

Rabbits. The RSPCA and the BVA both give an ideal of 10–20°C. The RSPCA and PDSA both say to move them indoors, or into a shed or car-free garage, as temperatures approach freezing. The Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund (RWAF) says healthy, bonded rabbits with shelter and a hidey-hole can cope down to around 5°C, and need a well-insulated indoor area below that.

Both. Keep them dry and out of draughts, never use a garage with a car in it, and avoid sudden warm-to-cold switches.

The first properly cold night of autumn tends to arrive without much warning. The forecast says 2°C, the hutch is at the bottom of the garden, and you're at the back door wondering whether a blanket will do. This guide is for that moment, and for the planning that makes it easier.

How cold is too cold? What each UK body says

Four UK organisations publish winter temperature guidance for these two species. They don't fully agree.

One gap matters in practice. None of these figures says whether it means the overnight low or a daytime reading. We'd go by the overnight low, because that's when a hutch is coldest and nobody is out there checking.

Our reading of the thresholds

For guinea pigs, the RSPCA's 15°C is the clearest line in the table, and it's the one we'd work to. PDSA's 15–20°C ideal points the same way. That's a high bar for an unheated hutch in a British winter, so we'd expect most guinea pigs to need to come in for much of the season.

Rabbits have more leeway. A healthy pair in a raised, dry, insulated hutch with deep hay can stay out through mild spells. Still, the number on the forecast isn't the whole story. The RSPCA says draughty, damp environments "can cause suffering and illness", so a wet, windy 4°C night deserves more caution than a still, dry one.

RWAF's 5°C figure has a caveat of its own: the page is written for indoor rabbits moving outside, so it fits rabbits that have lived out all year only loosely. We use it as an early-warning line. When forecast lows start heading towards 5°C, get your winter plan ready, then act on it before the first frost.

Where the advice differs

• Conservatories. PDSA calls a porch or conservatory "perfect", while the RSPCA says conservatories are "not ideal" for rabbits. The section on where to move them covers this.

• Straw for guinea pigs. PDSA suggests hay or straw, but the RSPCA says to avoid straw because it can cause eye injuries. See the bedding section.

• Blankets. Several bodies suggest a blanket over the hutch, while the RSPCA advises against giving rabbits blankets because they chew them. The difference is over the hutch versus inside it, which the covers section explains.

Rabbits vs guinea pigs in the cold: why they're not the same

It's easy to file both under "small pet in a hutch" and give them identical winter care. The thresholds say otherwise.

Start with rabbits. The RSPCA points out that "Domestic rabbits don't have the thick fur of wild rabbits, so they're more sensitive to low temperatures." The wild rabbit on the verge in January tells you very little about what a pet can take.

Guinea pigs, in PDSA's words, "are sensitive to the cold and can become unwell if they get too chilly." The RSPCA's 15°C floor for guinea pigs sits five degrees above the bottom of its 10–20°C ideal for rabbits.

Then the BVA flips it. Its figures give rabbits 10–20°C and guinea pigs 5–20°C, which on paper makes guinea pigs the hardier species. That's the outlier, since the RSPCA and PDSA both put guinea pigs at the warmer end. We'd treat the BVA's 5°C as the bottom of what guinea pigs tolerate, not a comfortable winter temperature.

Conditions matter for rabbits too. RWAF's "around 5°C" applies to rabbits that are healthy, live with a companion, have no significant fur loss and have a sheltered space with a hidey-hole.

A lone rabbit doesn't fit that description. Neither does an elderly one, or one with bald patches: RWAF notes that "if rabbits have areas of missing fur then they will be more susceptible to the cold."

So outdoor winter housing isn't right for every rabbit. And if you keep both species, the guinea pigs will usually need to come in first.

How to keep outdoor rabbits and guinea pigs warm in winter: setting up the hutch

If your animals are staying outside, for the whole winter or just the milder weeks before the move, the hutch does most of the work. Start with where it stands.

Where to put the hutch

The BVA says hutches and runs "should be in a sheltered position, away from wind, rain and snow," and at least 10 cm off the ground. The RSPCA also says outside shelters should be raised, to help deter predators and "stop them getting damp".

A spot against a house wall or a solid fence, with the front turned away from the prevailing wind, usually beats the middle of the lawn. The RSPCA's list for an outdoor home is short and demanding: "waterproof, draught-proof, damp-proof, dry and well ventilated." Check the roof felt before the first heavy rain.

The hutch is only the bedroom. For a pair of average-sized rabbits, RWAF recommends a main living area of at least 3m x 2m by 1m high, with the hutch inside it. Our first-time pet owner guide covers space for rabbits and guinea pigs in more detail.

Covers and insulation

Most UK advice agrees on the basic step: put something over the hutch. PDSA suggests "an old blanket or tarpaulin", and the BVA adds an old duvet to the same list. Thick blankets or an old piece of carpet on top work "to help insulate it and keep the heat in," according to PDSA's vet Q&A, while Wood Green's version is a fitted hutch cover plus blankets "to keep the frost out."

Any cover comes with a condition. "You'll need to make sure that air can still move freely, though!" says PDSA, and its guinea pig page repeats the point for tarpaulin covers. Remember the RSPCA's warning about damp, poorly ventilated housing: wrap a hutch airtight and you swap cold air for stale, damp air.

Timing helps. For rabbits, the RSPCA's advice is to cover most of the shelter at night, leaving a small area exposed for ventilation, and to leave the front open during the day.

Then there's chewing. PDSA says to make sure rabbits "can't get to the blanket to nibble it!" The RSPCA goes further: don't provide blankets inside the enclosure, as rabbits tend to chew them, "which could result in an intestinal blockage." The fabric goes over the outside, fixed out of reach. Nothing soft and chewable goes in.

What to look for in a hutch cover:

• Waterproof outer layer. Rain and sleet should run straight off and leave the wood dry.

• A ventilation gap. Air needs a way in and out, even with the cover fully down at night.

• Nothing within reach. Loose edges shouldn't hang where teeth can get at them through the mesh.

• Quick to roll up. You'll open the front every morning and close it every evening, so straps or toggles beat anything fiddly.

Winter bedding

Deep, dry bedding is the cheapest insulation there is. Wood Green advises "a deep layer of fresh hay for warmth and comfort", and the BVA suggests lining the hutch with plenty of newspaper, then lots of hay on top.

For rabbits, the RSPCA says bedding should be "warm and also safe to eat", and "dust-free straw or hay is perfect".

Guinea pigs are where the advice splits. PDSA's winter page suggests "plenty of bedding hay or straw". The RSPCA disagrees on straw: "Coarse materials like straw should also be avoided as they can cause eye injuries." It also rules out softwood products such as pine, and fluffy bedding that separates into thin strands.

We'd follow the RSPCA and stick to dust-free hay for guinea pigs. It's the more cautious choice.

Whatever you use, PDSA's rule is to "Change it regularly to keep their hutch fresh and dry." Wet hay is cold hay.

Garage, shed, porch or house: where to move them when it's too cold

Once the forecast crosses your line, the question becomes where. There are three realistic options, and they aren't equal.

A car-free shed or garage

PDSA and the RSPCA both name a shed or garage as a fallback when the house isn't possible. One condition outranks everything else.

Never a garage with a car in it: The RSPCA says: "Never house or exercise rabbits in a garage that is in use, as vehicle exhaust fumes are harmful to rabbits." PDSA's winter pages for both species are blunter: "Remember: car fumes could be fatal."

A shed also needs more than a roof. The BVA's advice is to move them to "a well-ventilated space" with "light and room to exercise", and PDSA's vet Q&A adds: "Don't forget that they will still need space to exercise." In practice that means a pen inside the shed as well as the hutch, plus a window or a light on a timer.

A porch or conservatory

This is the sharpest disagreement in the guidance. PDSA's winter pages call a porch or conservatory "perfect, to avoid them over-heating in our cosy homes." The RSPCA's rabbit page says conservatories "are also not ideal for rabbits because they can become very hot in summer and cold in winter."

Both have a point. Our view is that a conservatory works only if its temperature stays stable. Leave a min/max thermometer in there for a few days. If it drops close to the outdoor temperature overnight, or bakes on a sunny afternoon, choose somewhere else. For guinea pigs, check it against the RSPCA's 17–20°C room range.

Indoors in the house

The house gives you the most control. For rabbits, the RSPCA notes, living indoors can "provide protection from extreme weather and allow closer monitoring of health".

Choose the spot with care, though, and watch two places in particular:

• Near radiators. For rabbits, Wood Green warns that "Dry heat from a radiator can cause health issues" and suggests keeping the heating in their room off or set to low. For guinea pigs, the RSPCA notes that "Some areas of centrally heated houses may get too hot".

• By windows and doors. Draughts there can give guinea pigs chills, according to PDSA.

The rest of the indoor set-up, from non-slip flooring to floor space, is in the rabbit and guinea pig section of our guide to choosing a pet for flat living.

December indoors brings its own risks, mostly cables, decorations and festive plants within reach, which our Christmas pet hazards guide covers. And if they're still outside in early November, our fireworks season guide explains the temporary move and how to cover the hutch for noise.

Moving them in (and back out) without shocking their system

"Just bring them in for the night" sounds like the kind option. Done every time the forecast dips, it can backfire.

Every body that covers this agrees. For rabbits, Wood Green puts it simply: "Quick changes in temperature can be harmful to rabbits." RWAF adds that "It's also not ideal to keep moving them back and forth, inside to out and back again," and that going from a very warm indoor area straight out into the cold "can cause them harm."

Guinea pigs are no hardier here. They "don't cope well with big changes in temperature", in the RSPCA's words, and PDSA advises against moving indoor guinea pigs outdoors in the colder months for a similar reason: the sudden change "can make them unwell."

So choose a moving date and stick to it.

For rabbits, the RSPCA suggests settling them in gradually, bringing them indoors for increasingly longer periods each day through summer and autumn before the full-time move. If it's already cold, take more care: the RSPCA says to "Be very cautious about bringing outdoor rabbits inside for short periods", because the temperature change can be hard for them.

The reverse applies too. Any rabbit moving outside while it's still cold needs, in PDSA's words, "time to adapt and grow a thicker coat to cope with the colder temperatures".

Spring is the mirror image. The RSPCA's rule for rabbits returning outside after winter is to wait until the days are warmer, at least 10°C, then increase their outdoor time gradually. For guinea pigs it says to "wait for the right temperature", and given its own 15°C line, that's the figure we'd wait for.

Staying put shouldn't mean staying still. PDSA says "Even in cold weather, your pets need natural light and exercise", and recommends rabbits have constant access to an outdoor run. Guinea pigs need different handling on wet days: "If it is cold and damp, avoid letting your guinea pigs out on the grass as they will get cold". A covered or indoor run does the job instead.

Frozen water bottles and winter feeding

A frozen bottle is easy to miss. It looks full. Nothing comes out.

PDSA's winter pages give three fixes for both species:

• Wrap the bottle in bubble wrap or an old sock (Wood Green suggests bubble wrap too).

• Move the ball in the spout regularly, so it doesn't freeze in place.

• Check water at least twice a day, which is also the RSPCA's minimum.

The RSPCA also suggests offering a bowl as well as the bottle, noting that "a water bowl is less likely to freeze than a bottle." With two sources, one frozen spout doesn't leave them without a drink.

On food, the RSPCA is direct: "Never feed greens or vegetables that are frosty or frozen, as these could harm your rabbits." That warning sits on its rabbit page, but we'd apply it to guinea pigs' fresh food as well. Bringing greens indoors to lose the chill takes a few minutes.

Outdoor rabbits may also need more energy. "Rabbits kept outdoors may need to consume more calories to help maintain their body temperature," says the RSPCA.

Hay is already the base of a rabbit's diet, and RWAF's advice is to "ensure yours have an unlimited supply", so in winter the main job is keeping the hay rack full and dry. If your rabbit seems to be losing weight, ask your vet before adding extras.

Heat pads, lamps and snuggle pads: using them safely

Extra heat is a top-up for the coldest nights. It can't replace a dry, sheltered hutch. Three UK bodies mention it:

• The RSPCA, for rabbits: "If necessary, consider using a heat lamp or microwaveable heat pads designed for rabbits for additional warmth."

• PDSA, for both species: "Place an animal-safe heat pad under their bedding for extra warmth." Its guinea pig page adds: "Make sure this is in a suitable fabric cover to prevent burns."

• Wood Green, for rabbits: "On particularly freezing days, place pet-friendly snuggle pads in their hutch or shed wrapped in a towel."

Before using any heat source, run through these checks (our own practical reasoning, built on the advice above):

• Made for small animals. A pad sold for pets matches what the RSPCA and PDSA describe, unlike a human hot water bottle or electric blanket.

• Covered and under the bedding. Keep the pad inside its fabric cover, below the hay, never bare against skin.

• No reachable cable. RWAF notes that "rabbits are very keen to chew through electrical cables and wires". Microwaveable pads avoid the problem, and anything that plugs in needs the whole cable outside the enclosure.

• Room to move away. The pad should cover only part of the floor, so they can shift off it if they get too warm.

• Lamps fixed out of reach. A heat lamp belongs above and outside the enclosure, where it can't be touched or knocked into bedding.

Signs your rabbit or guinea pig is too cold, and when to call the vet

Don't wait for an obvious sign. PDSA describes rabbits as "masters of hiding their pain", which is a good reason to check both species closely every morning and evening in cold weather.

For rabbits, the RSPCA's line is clear: "Rabbits don't hibernate, so if they're lethargic, sleepy or limp, please take them to the vet."

PDSA's hypothermia page is written for pets in general. The signs it lists include:

• shivering, which can stop once a pet is severely cold

• "Drowsiness, confusion and clumsiness"

• "Pale gums"

• "Loss of consciousness/collapse and coma"

Treat any of these as a reason to call your vet. Don't try to work out at home what's causing them.

Who's most at risk

According to PDSA, "Pets that are very young, small, elderly, skinny, or poorly are at high risk of hypothermia." The RSPCA's rabbit page singles out older rabbits who may suffer from painful arthritis, and rabbits who are thin, young or don't have a thick winter coat, as needing extra attention. Add rabbits with missing fur, per RWAF.

RWAF's arthritis checklist, written as questions for owners, asks whether a rabbit moves around less when it's cold or damp. If that sounds familiar, our joint and mobility guide covers arthritis in rabbits and when to see a vet.

What to do straight away

If your rabbit or guinea pig seems too cold, PDSA's steps are:

1. Call your vet immediately.

2. If they're wet, dry them carefully with a towel (the RSPCA gives the same advice for rabbits).

3. Slowly increase the temperature around them. Don't use anything hot, such as a hot water bottle.

4. If they can drink, offer lukewarm (not hot) water.

5. Take them to the vet to be checked over, "even if you think they're okay."

See a vet: PDSA's advice is to "Contact your vet immediately if you notice your rabbit not eating properly." Rabbits need to eat regularly to keep their guts moving, and gut stasis "is an emergency that can be fatal if it isn't treated quickly." For guinea pigs, treat any change in eating or drinking as a reason to ring your vet too.

Common winter mistakes with outdoor rabbits and guinea pigs

• Assuming fur is enough. "Rabbits and guinea pigs are also vulnerable to hypothermia despite their warm coats," says Justine Shotton, quoted on the Met Office page as BVA President.

• Sealing the hutch airtight. A cover needs a gap for air, even at night.

• Bringing them in every cold night and out again every morning. One planned move is kinder.

• Feeding frosty greens. Let them lose the chill indoors first.

• Leaving a heat pad bare. Keep it in a fabric cover, with any cable out of reach.

• Bedding guinea pigs on straw. The RSPCA links it to eye injuries, so use dust-free hay.

The bottom line

For guinea pigs, our reading is that winter means indoors, or a car-free shed or garage, for much of the season. The RSPCA's 15°C line is a high bar for an unheated hutch, and more blankets won't close that gap.

Rabbits have more room. A healthy pair in a raised, dry, ventilated hutch with deep hay can ride out the milder weeks, as long as you have a plan for when temperatures approach freezing. For both species, keep them dry, keep the water flowing, and move them once.

To put this guide together, we compared current winter-care guidance from the RSPCA, PDSA, the Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund, Wood Green and the British Veterinary Association (via the Met Office). Where they disagree, we've shown both positions and which way we lean. We didn't test any products or set-ups ourselves.

This week, check the forecast lows for your postcode and decide where your rabbits and guinea pigs will spend the coldest nights. It's far easier now than at 10pm with a torch in your hand.